What is the “fashion discourse power” in the big cities?


Photo source @ Visual China

Image Source @视觉中国

Wen | Fat Zi Xi

Recently, the news that some foreign "fast fashion" brands have not performed well in the Chinese market has begun to enter people's horizons. The root of this phenomenon is not only the size of consumers' money bags. It is also related to the deviation of fast fashion brands' understanding of a larger group of consumers.

In today's China, although big cities still have the right to speak in the hands of fashion, consumers have more choices and faster reactions than in the past.

How do Chinese big cities establish the right to speak in fashion?

Although in the world, densely populated and economically active regions always hold the right to speak in fashion, in China, the process of mastering this right to speak in big cities still has its own characteristics.

More than a hundred years ago, a Western businessman doing business in Shanghai once judged the cloth consumer market in China at that time: "Urban residents, businessmen and others who, to some extent, have the ability to sacrifice their economies for beauty," Is our best customer. "

The reason why the cloth was popular at the time and became synonymous with the trend was not only because of the absolute advantages of the color and the type of the cloth, but also the convenience of the cloth cloth in the cutting and matching.

But trapped by the overall social and economic development, the businessman said that the "ability to sacrifice the economy for beauty" has always been limited to some of the people in the big cities.

In the period after the consumption tide swept through China in the 1980s, due to the close relationship between ideological fashion consumption and western popular culture, the relevant content had little foothold in the media field where the degree of marketization was not high at that time. So for a long time, fashion concepts and information flow only between a few circles in some big cities. So much so that there are occasional interesting conversations about returning people dressed in 'trendy' clothes in big cities.

It is also worth noting that some people in the Western society will use the subculture to “confront” the pop and the consumer society represented by it. The domestic people do not have a similar subculture atmosphere in their early years. Society and symbols are almost readily accepted.

In the first decade of the new century, foreign brands began to enter the first-tier city market, at the same time, a number of fashion media have been established. This seems to make "fashion" to a wider audience, but the popularity and penetration of any consumer goods, information flow and commodity flow are indispensable.

Many consumers in non-large cities can't easily touch or buy even if they can see the colorful costumes in the magazine (so that the purchase of clothing bags between cities has become an important way in the past), it can be said that in a certain sense, fashion The media and the brand played a collusive role in the high-end and even "sacredness" of the concept of "fashion". At this stage, the fashion discourse rights in the hands of big cities were further strengthened after the "fashion" came to the front.

The sinking market began to step into the stage of fashion consumption.

Although there have been occasional twists and turns in the media, the spread of fashion content in China has finally played a role in the slow process of “taking two steps back”. However, in addition to large cities, the vast market is always in a passive position in the production and consumption of fashion content.

But change is taking place.

The evolution of the technical level is, of course, paramount.

Sinking users have more leisure time to brush their phones, with active users accounting for more active users than non-sinking users between 6: 00 and 24:00 a day, according to QuestMobile3 monthly data.

As far as the total length of users is concerned, it is also data from QuestMobile. The length of use of mobile video already accounts for 21.6% of the total length of sinking users, compared with a year ago, the increase is also the first in the growth of major modules.

(the increase in the length of mobile video comes at the expense of other types of applications)

When it comes to the most important consumers of fashion content, the data reported by Eli show that the size of young female users of short video apps is already close to the social category of the "first rigid demand" of the Internet, and the penetration of short videos in this group can be seen.

But if you just have free time, I'm afraid it's not enough to explain why many domestic Internet companies are so bullish on the business prospects of sinking regions.

From the point of view of consumption power, the high cost of big cities, mainly due to housing prices and education, has squeezed the expenditures that people living here can actually use for consumption. Inside and outside the big city besieged, everyone’s money bag level is almost gradually approaching.

(In the past five years, the population group that is considered to be "sinking" has a higher rate of revenue and expenditure.)

The convergence of these technological and commercial forces has allowed people outside the big cities to take a more important market landscape in the fashion consumer arena.

"Aesthetic upgrade" that occurred in the sinking market

Users in the sinking market are responding faster to fashion.

Users can get the clothing they bought by ordering in two or three days by moving the e-commerce. Compared to the previous month's magazine to determine the current out-of-the-box wear, the mobile video that has emerged in the past two years has helped them achieve "what you see is what you get". This efficiency has greatly improved, so that more girls not only do more girls. Dare to chase, and indeed have the ability to catch up with the rapid pace of change.

Nowadays, girls in Shanghai Bund and a small town can almost always wear the latest styles of the season. In the past, the fashion “leading-following” relationship, which was built on the inside and outside of big cities and relying on physical “time difference”, has weakened.

The acceleration of information flow in promoting the aesthetic aesthetic ability of users in a wide range of areas is not only reflected in a "fast". The expression of self-demand is gradually reshaping the fashion view of consumers here.

The era of unidirectional content instillation by the media as a channel has ended. Unlike the magazines that were only available for reading a decade ago, today's girls can not only express themselves with the help of consumption, but also can comment directly in the short video and live broadcast rooms, giving timely feedback to content providers.

As a result of decades of social development, the younger generation has gradually begun to form their own trends and even sub-cultural concepts.

One investor once concluded, "for the younger generation, in their upbringing, China and the United States are G2."

This kind of economic self-confidence and security makes young people's brands that symbolize foreign consumer social symbols not fully accepted like the previous generation. They may make different brand type choices----Eri's "" The upgraded generation of "Female Apparel Consumption Insights" report shows that among the young respondents, although 61% of girls still choose to choose fast fashion brands, online trend brands and local brands are becoming faster. Occupying their minds, 56% and 40% of girls in the survey said they would buy these two brands frequently.

In foreign countries, such as street style and so on, the elements of the Asian culture have been absorbed into the fashion industry, and even become the mark of some fashion. The process will also take place when certain subcultures in the country grow to a sufficient coverage.

In addition to brand choices, more and more young consumers are no longer seeing fashion as a symbol or an empty concept as they used to be, and seeing it as a solution to their own in a particular scenario. - This is also directly related to the diversity of their daily life scenes.

Also from data reported by Eli, 54 percent of respondents wanted businesses or platforms to provide appropriate clothing solutions based on their size and preferences. At a time when ecommerce video is being broadcast, 47% of respondents want to see a dress match when they buy clothes online.

It is quite evocative that the fast fashion brand began to lay down the domestic sinking market in 2015 and 2016, which is also the time node for the rise of mobile video.

Most brands do not take advantage of these new technologies to understand and approach local user needs. More often, they are just symbols of a foreign brand. Therefore, when young women outside the big cities began to “vote” with their money, “fast fashion” encountered bottlenecks and became a natural thing. (This article is the first titanium media)

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